Imagine swimming in waters so clear you can see every pebble. Albania’s historical landscape is a complex tapestry that tells a story of resilience, cultural fusion, and extraordinary heritage.

My waiter and I are enjoying a Billy Idol-soundtracked standoff in the middle of Tirana’s fabulous ’80s rock-themed Restorant Tymi: I want to pay for my meal and he declares that he just wants me to ...