Rila Monastery, two hours outside of Sofia, is where St. Ivan Rilksi lived in seclusion during the 10th century. His followers turned Rila into the spiritual capital of medieval Bulgaria.

Sunday brunch at the five-star Hilton Sofia (17) at 1 Bulgaria Boulevard (00 359 2 933 5000) runs noon-3.30pm, for a flat 49 leva (£22) – including unlimited beer or sparkling wine. Go to church ...